The fetching Atlantic port of Essaouira lacks the fame and grandeur of more famous Moroccan cities like Casablanca, but that is exactly its draw.
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Arabic lesson No. 1: fenn. It means art, and it’s being uttered, printed and practiced like never before in Morocco’s “Jewel of the South.”
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Near nightfall I slid back down to camp. Jagged stars blazed overhead, like a van Gogh painting.
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But things in Fez are rarely as simple as they seem. The windows, blocks and bowls are thought to have formed an elaborate clock, powered by running water, that sounded the hours of prayer — though no one knows this for certain. The mechanism, if there was one, has been lost to time.
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