“We are trying to educate the public that coffee is exactly like wine,” Mr. Galhenage said. “It has its own taste and flavors that come from the region in which it is grown.”
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“Nobody knew about Puglia or our way of eating, or our wines, or our producers,” Ms. Rascazzo said. “It was just Mafia, pizza, spaghetti — the usual things associated with the south.”
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In El Jem, auto-parts shops and a few downbeat restaurants lined the main street. But as I wheeled my suitcase through the dust, the object of my quest appeared at the end of the thoroughfare.
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Dolled-up young professionals, cigar-smoking captains of industry and local celebrities fill the plush red booths and chairs to watch more than a dozen musical acts belt out a globetrotting playlist.
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“I wanted to evoke the kind of craziness that animated Russia and Moscow some years back,” Mr. Starck explained, referring to the heady 1990s, when post-Soviet greed and lawlessness were at their peak.
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Looking like the unlikely offspring of Zsa Zsa Gabor and Darth Vader, the trio grinds to club music next to a crowded outdoor pool by the beach.
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